The first Monday after epiphany is traditionally ‘verloren maandag’ in Belgium and specifically here in Antwerp. This is usually celebrated by eating warm sausage rolls and an apple in puff pastry. Of course we were not going to eat this without the proper wines to accompany this.
First up was a bottle of 1959 Volnay, made by Arthur Barolet. The vintage label for this bottle was missing unfortunately, but it comes from a cellar where we bought several bottles and this was kept in the same alcove as the other bottles which still had their 1959 vintage slip so we were quite sure this also was a 1959. Dr Arthur Barolet is somewhat a legend among producers, especially known for selecting and producing his wines with incredible ageing potential. After having tasted this wine, I see where he got his reputation from.
The color of the wine is very dark tuilé, brick red, no light transparent fluid here as you might expect for an old pinot noir. To pick up the smell there’s even no need to whirl the wine around in the glass, the aroma’s just rise up so overpowering and concentrated it’s a real joy. Unbelievably there’s still lots fruit left, brambles, cherry jam and dark plum compote accompanied by soft woody tones of cedar and cigarbox, gentle spices, a floral undertone (violets) and to add to the complexity lots of forest notes as well. Simply stunning, on the palate this has that same complexity, it’s a tsunami of concentrated warmth with completely softened tannins and perhaps just a tad lacking in acidity. It’s full throttle power but still somehow managing to remain delicate and soft with a very supple but ever so long finish. This is the Olympic gymnast of wines : all the power and muscle you can manage but still light on its feet, delicate and with tons of souplesse.
Ok, perhaps having this wine with the sausage roll is like Petrus with your cheeseburger, but it will always be a moment to remember.
To accompany the warm apple pastry we had another special treat : a 1959 Coteaux du Layon by Moulin Touchais. This producer too is legendary, known for producing excellent, mostly sweeter wines from late harvested chenin blanc that sometimes matures for decades before being released. In the glass the wine is opulent and viscous, shiny light caramel colored with an orange hue in its rim. Fist whiff is surprising to say the least, the slightly off putting aroma of curdled milk or rancid butter, luckily fading away to reveal more pleasing fruity aromas of ripe sweet apples, orange zest and Mandarine Napoleon. Also noticeable is a slight nutty touch of almond milk and marzipan in the finish. In the mouth it is very rich and sweet as expected, with just enough acidity as counter balance to keep enough lightness. In the medium long finish also a subtle bitterness of caramel and again that hint of almond peels. Perhaps not as good a some Sauternes I have had, but still a great dessert wine that seems to have an ageing potential that will outlive us all.
DC
